On
January 1, 2004, I returned to Africa for the first time in more than
10 years. I was thrilled to feel the pulse of Mother Africa again. But
the most exciting part was bringing my 3-year-old boy and my 6-year-old
daughter along. Laura, my wife, had been to South Africa previously.
This trip was a business trip for her, but the children and I were on
holiday!
The
kids turned out to be real little adventurers. We stayed in Pretoria
for a few days, which was fun and interesting, but the real adventure
was our trip to northern KwaZulu Natal. Spotting Zebras and Rhinos and
Buffalo, and going on trips to discover remote, unspoiled beaches turned
out to be some of the kids' favorite adventure fun. And of course splashing
in the pool and chasing weird beetles around the lodge was a big hit.
I
was very impressed by the natural beauty of KwaZulu Natal and by the
relaxed, friendly people there. In Pretoria we were careful and mostly
stayed in the hotel after dark. The outrageous crime-rate is ever-present
in the city, with "carjacking hot-spot" warning signs and
the ubiquitous razor-wire. Out in KwaZulu Natal, I felt much more at
ease, although crime and political
violence are a problem there, too.
KwaZulu
Natal is chock-full of wild life. It is home to several spectacular
game reserves: Huhluwe-Umfolozi, St. Lucia Wetland Reserve, Tembe Elephant
Park, Pongola and many more.
But
not just the Big Five can be found there (Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Rhino,
Lion, Leopard). The Indian Ocean is also teeming with hundreds of species
of colorful, tropical fish, giant turtles, 14 species of sharks and
several whale species. The reefs off Sodwana reportedly are home to
1,600 fish species. St Lucia is also famous for a huge, diverse bird
population.
Even outside the
reserves you can run across crocs and hippos. But even at our lodge,
I found huge bugs, a cute chameleon and a tortoise. And every evening
we sat on the deck sipping beers or Mampoer, watching the bats hunt
bugs and occasionally swooping down and skimming the surface of the
swimming pool for a drink "on the fly."
Pretoria
was a very different experience. We spent the first five days in the
capital of South Africa, and learned a bit about the history of that
country. We visited the Voortrekker Monument, a huge, pompous and defensive
memorial to Afrikaner heritage. And we saw Union Building, the first
South African parliament, and the excellent Pretoria Zoo. But Pretoria
is definitely the "whitest" African city I ever saw.
South Africa is
a gorgeous country full of wonderful people. But this country is struggling
under the burden on a bloody history, with the imprint of apartheid
and racism still painfully obvious. But the bloody history of this part
of Africa goes back to Shaka Zulu's violent exploits, the cruel wars
of the Voortrekker and British colonialists, and the nasty Boer
War between the Brits and the Afrikaners. Yet there is also a very
positive message coming from South Africa. That message speaks of reconciliation
and change. And Nelson
Mandela is one of the few world statesmen universally recognized
for integrity and intelligence.